Wednesday, September 6, 2017

New York Cheesecake

Mom celebrating Ginger's 1st Bday.
Today is my mom’s birthday. She would have been 72 years old. They say when you lose a loved one, the “firsts” are the always the hardest, and that’s very true today. Not being able to call her and wish her Happy Birthday (followed by the annual guilt and explanation of why her card will be late/not sent/I bought it, addressed and stamped it and now can’t find it) is so very hard. 

My mother never liked to celebrate her birthday. She didn’t want people to go out of their way or make a fuss, or reminded of her age. However, she looked forward to celebrating other people’s birthdays. She was the one in the family that always remembered everyone’s birthday, sent cards and gifts and wished them happiness. 





Mom with her dachshund scarf
Her dachshund boy, Buster
My mom was also one of those people that was difficult to buy for. She’d treasure anything you gave her, but she never really wanted anything, and, if she did, she wouldn’t tell you. Again, never wanted anyone to make a fuss. Every year I would wrack my brain to try and find something different and special, something she would want but would never buy herself. My mother loved animals, especially dogs and hummingbirds, so I usually could find something in that category. However, I couldn't rely on too many cute knickknacks, as clutter would stress her out, and there are only so many hummingbird charms or dachshund scarves you can buy one person. 

One year I couldn’t think of anything to get her, and when I asked, she, as usual, said she wanted nothing. I wanted to treat her to something special, as she deserved it. If I sent gift certificates, she would use them on someone else. If I baked something and sent it to her, there is no guarantee what condition it would arrive in (if at all). So, I asked my good friend Naomi Allen, who is an AMAZING baker (among other amazing things) if she could do me a huge favor and bake my mom cheesecake and drop it off to her. This is something Naomi is known to do. She’s like a little baking fairy, leaving sweet treats on doorsteps of unsuspecting sugar recipients.  That morning I called my mom and told her to check the front porch and, sure enough, the magical baking fairy had left a gift. One gorgeous cheesecake. She LOVED it. Seriously, loved it. “Best gift I could get,” she said. After that, cheesecakes (and other sweet treats) were a standard gift for birthdays, Mother’s Day, Christmas or just a day. In the most beautiful gesture, Naomi brought one to her memorial service for me, which was the perfect tribute to her. 

 So, today, for her birthday, I’m baking her a cheesecake.

In her drawer and her email, she had several cheesecake recipes saved, including low-fat, low-sugar versions (which I question their validity and motive to exist). I recently found the recipe for the original Junior’s Cheesecake in New York online. For Mother’s Day one year I sent her a Best of sampler from Junior’s. Three pounds of decadent cheesecake goodness. She loved every bite. I believe I will eventually try them all, but today, for her, I will bake the first cheesecake I gave her, via my friend.


The Recipe


Sunshine Graham Cracker New York Cheesecake 


1 7/8 cups Graham Cracker Crumbs
1/2 cup (1 stick) butter, melted
1 cup sugar, divided
2 pounds cream cheese
2 large eggs, lightly beaten
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
2 Tablespoons cornstarch
1 cup sour cream


Preheat oven to 450 F. In a bowl, place Sunshine Graham Cracker Crumbs, butter and 2 tablespoons sugar; blend well. Reserve 2 tablespoons for garnish. Press remaining mixture onto bottom and sides of a greased 9-inch springform pan. Chill in freezer while preparing filling. In mixer bowl, beat cream cheese and remaining sugar until smooth and light. Beat in eggs, vanilla and cornstarch, just until blended. Stir in sour cream. Pour mixture into prepared crust and bake for 10 minutes. Reduce temperature to 200 F and bake 45 minutes. Turn off oven; allow to cool with the door opened slightly, for 3 hours. Remove sides from pan; sprinkle with reserved crumb mixture and chill. Makes 12 servings. 



First off, a big thank you to Naomi for sending me her clipped recipe, via text. This recipe has stood the test of time and corporate acquisition. Sunshine Biscuits started at the turn of the century in 1902 and became household name with their signature products, such as Cheez-It crackers and Hydrox cookies. The company was bought by The American Tobacco Company in 1966, then by G.F. Industries, then finally acquired by the Keebler company in 1996 (and as the econ train rolls, Keebler was acquired by Kellogg Company in 2001 – do you really know who owns your cookie????). At the time, Sunshine Biscuits was the third largest cookie baker in the United States. Needless to say, Sunshine Graham Crackers were quite popular, as was this recipe for cheesecake. In fact, if you Google it, there are many sites that feature this tried and true recipe by name, even though the brand no longer exists. This is also the cheesecake recipe that Naomi would make for my mother. So, I have high hopes for this bake. 


The Bake

Whirling Wafers!
Since Sunshine Graham crackers no longer exist, I used Whole Foods 365 Organic Honey Graham Crackers. Since I still don't have a food processor (I never think I want or need one, until I do, then I want one, but come up with some makeshift solution for the task at hand, then go back to thinking I don't REALLY need one), I used my VitaMix. It ground them pretty fine, maybe a little too fine, as they came out also like a flour, but hopefully it will hold well and make a smooth-looking crust. I did not reserve the 2 tablespoons for garnish, as I wanted to top it with fruit instead. 

Needs a little touch-up, but sticking!
I had a devil of a time with the graham cracker crust. I couldn't get the graham cracker mix to stick to the sides of the springform pan. Using my fingers was not working well. It wouldn't stay on the sides and I couldn't get it even. I switched to a metal spoon, and that worked much better. My springform pan is brand new, so it's super-slicky, so that probably didn't help much. Then, after building the Wall of Graham, I realized I forgot to put in the 2 Tablespoons of sugar, so there might some of the stick factor as well. Will it hold up on its own? Will the walls come down? Will it be enough when Winter comes? We will see. I don't feel it will affect the taste too much, as graham crackers are tasty on their own.

Ready to go!



I'm glad I used my stand mixer for this, as beating cream cheese, a two whole pounds of it, isn't for the meek. I may have not gotten all the lumps out, but I was also apprehensive of over mixing. I stirred in the sour cream with a spoon, just because I felt it was the thing to do.






My oven door doesn't have a "slightly open" option.
The baking instructions are a little unusual for this recipe, with the reduction of heat and leaving the cake in the oven with door slightly open after baking for three hours. I was diligent and followed them to the letter, including resisting the urge to poke at it while it was resting. It also calls for the cheesecake to be chilled after taking out of the oven, but did not specify a time. I chilled it for about an half an hour, but I would suggest longer to get a good set on it. 






Shaka, when the walls fell. 
I had a bit of a structural failure. Apparently my pan is much higher than the cake itself, therefore so were my sides, which came crumbing down when I removed the pan. The crust also crumbled at the actual cake, however, held strong enough to retain and hold the cake, just mostly aesthetic issues. A few practice runs, along with remembering the sugar, I should get the hang of it.








The Results




DELICIOUS! It seems so simple. How could I follow this easy recipe and end up making something that an entire "Factory" chain was created to do? This recipe makes a dense and yet creamy, flavorful cheesecake. I’m convinced that the baking method - bake, reduce heat, rest in oven - is a good portion of the magic to this recipe. I also think it's simplicity is a key too. Even plain, it’s quite good. You could easily add lemon, orange or any citrus to this and it should blend well with the tang of the sour
cream, but not be too sour. You could also add chocolate, fruit swirls or top it with just anything you like. Naomi says the secret ingredient to her cakes is topping them with Malley's hot fudge sauce, from Cleveland. That sounds good to me as hot fudge + cheesecake = happiness.


I was quite surprised. Even my husband, who is adamant about his dislike of cheesecake (he insists cheese should not be sweet) said, “It’s not that bad.” Now, that is a winner recipe!

I hope I did mom proud. I believe she really would have enjoyed this cake. I know I did. 





Happy Birthday Mom. I love you and I miss you. I hope you are enjoying cake in whatever form that may be among the stars. 💖



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